Service Process

Direct answerYes — at agreed milestones. The four that matter are: after fabric inspection (shade and weight confirmed), after cutting (quantity and panel check), at in-line sewing (first finished pieces), and before packing (final quantity and carton status). Each update should include photos plus a number, because a photo without quantity cannot tell you whether you are on schedule.Why milestone updates beat daily messagesDaily messages create noise and still miss the moments where intervention is possible. Milestones map to the points where a problem is still fixable: a shade issue at fabric stage is a re-dye conversation; the same issue at packing is a claim.A useful update has three parts: what stage, how many pieces, and what is the next gate. Photos support the claim, they do not replace it.MilestoneWhat you receiveWhat you can still changeFabric inspectionShade and weight photos, roll countFabric or shade, before cuttingAfter cuttingCut quantity by colour and sizeQuantity mix, before sewingIn-line sewingFirst finished pieces, key seamsConstruction detailsBefore packingFinal quantity, carton marksPacking and shipping onlyHow to set this up in the orderWrite the update schedule into the order confirmation with the responsible contact. Unwritten expectations become arguments at the busiest part of the schedule.If a milestone slips, the value is in hearing it early with a revised date, not in an apology at the end.Field exampleA brand asked for weekly updates and received a photo dump with no numbers. Switching to four milestone reports with quantities surfaced a 6% shortfall at cutting stage, which was corrected before sewing instead of being discovered in the carton count.Numbers that matterFour milestones: fabric inspection, cutting, in-line sewing, pre-packingEvery update needs a quantity, not only photosWrite the schedule into the order confirmationEarly notice of a slip is worth more than a late apologyRelated questionsHow is quality checked before bulk jacket production?How can brands reduce delays in custom apparel production?How can I evaluate a clothing manufacturer before paying a deposit?How do I start working with a custom clothing manufacturer?How the VANRD production process runs, step by step

Direct answerEvaluate on evidence, not presentation. Ask for comparable production photos or video from the actual line, a live video walk-through of the workshop, the QC checkpoints written down, and a reference customer who can answer specific questions about defects and delays. Then place a paid sample order and judge the spec sheet against what arrives. At VANRD this is the same path every new buyer takes before a deposit.Five checks that separate a factory from a traderA trading company can quote well and deliver badly, because the line it promises is not its own. The fastest filter is a live video call walking through cutting, sewing and finishing — with the machine types visible.Second filter: ask what they will not do. A factory that says “we do not run bonded fabrics” or “we cannot print on nylon” is describing real capability. One that says yes to everything is describing sales.CheckWhat good looks likeRed flagComparable productionPhotos or video of similar garments on the lineOnly stock catalogue imagesLive walk-throughCutting, sewing, finishing in one callRefusal or delayDocumented QCNamed checkpoints with AQL level“We check everything”ReferenceA customer who describes a defect and how it was handledOnly testimonialsSpec accuracyWritten spec matches the sampleVerbal promisesThe cheapest test is a sample orderA sample tests pattern-making, fabric sourcing, communication speed and finishing at once. Judge three things: did it arrive when promised, does it match the spec, and how did they respond to one round of corrections.Payment terms and guarantees belong in the contract, not in the sales conversation. Read what is written.Field exampleA buyer shortlisted two suppliers on price. The cheaper one could not show a live line and described QC as “final check by our manager”. The other ran a video walk-through, named four checkpoints and produced a sample in nine days. The second supplier cost more per unit and delivered without a single claim.Numbers that matterA live video walk-through is the fastest way to confirm a real factoryAsk for named QC checkpoints and the AQL level usedJudge the sample on punctuality, spec accuracy and response to correctionsWritten terms beat verbal promises every timeRelated questionsWhat should brands check before choosing a jacket manufacturer?How can brands reduce quality risks when working with a clothing manufacturer?How do I start working with a custom clothing manufacturer?What information should I provide to get an accurate manufacturing quote?How the VANRD production process runs, step by step

Direct answerClose all four approvals before cutting starts, in a fixed order: fabric quality first (quality code, GSM, composition), then colour (lab dip or bulk swatch under D65), then decoration (print or embroidery standard on the actual fabric), then trims (zippers, cords, labels). At VANRD this is the pre-production approval gate — bulk timing starts from that approval, not from the PO date.Why the order mattersFabric choice changes how colour reads and how decoration behaves. Approving a print before the fabric is fixed means re-approving it later. Approving a lab dip before the fabric quality is fixed means the dip may not match the bulk base at all.Once cutting begins, a colour change is not an edit — it is a re-cut or a re-dye, and both cost more than the delay would have.OrderApprovalWhat you are signing off1Fabric qualityQuality code, GSM, composition, shrinkage2ColourLab dip or bulk swatch under D653DecorationPrint or embroidery standard on production fabric4TrimsZipper, cord, labels, packaging sample5Pre-production sampleBulk version confirmed against the approved sampleWhat “approval” should mean in writingAn approval is a dated decision against a physical standard, recorded in writing. “Looks good” in a chat message is not an approval, and it will not settle a dispute three weeks later.Keep the approved standard sealed, physically or photographically, with the shade reference noted.Field exampleA brand approved the print first and changed the fabric a week later. The print, which read correctly on loopback, sank into the brushed surface of the new fleece and lost contrast. The decoration had to be re-approved and the bulk start moved by eleven days.Numbers that matterSequence: fabric quality → colour → decoration → trims → pre-production sampleBulk lead time of 25–35 days starts from pre-production approvalApprovals must be dated and tied to a physical standardA change after cutting is a re-cut or re-dye, not an editRelated questionsWhat is the difference between a fit sample, PP sample, TOP sample, and final inspection?How should brands approve denim wash effects before bulk production?How do I start working with a custom clothing manufacturer?What information should I provide to get an accurate manufacturing quote?How the VANRD production process runs, step by step

Direct answerGrading converts the approved base size into the full range by applying measured increments to each point of measure. Before bulk, VANRD issues a size set (usually the smallest, base and largest sizes) and a measurement sheet with tolerances; the set is measured again after a wash cycle when the fabric shrinks. Bulk is then inspected against that sheet, not against the base sample alone.What grading actually changesChest, body length, shoulder, sleeve, hem and neck opening each move by their own increment. A hoodie may grade 5 cm across the chest per size but only 2 cm in body length — the increments are not uniform, and they must follow the fit intent.This is why a base-size sample alone cannot prove a range. A size L that fits does not guarantee an XL that still looks oversized rather than simply bigger.CheckpointWhat to confirmWhenBase size sampleSilhouette, fabric hand, detailsSamplingGrading rulesIncrements per point of measureBefore size setSize setSmallest, base, largestBefore bulkTolerancesAcceptable deviation per pointWith size setPost-wash measurementShrinkage applied to gradingBefore bulk approvalWhere size complaints come fromTwo causes dominate: grading increments copied from a different fit block, and shrinkage applied to the base size but not to the grade. Both show up as “the larger sizes are off” rather than “everything is off”.Specify tolerances in the tech pack. Without them, measurement disputes have no reference.Field exampleA brand's XL measured 2 cm short against the size set. The cause was shrinkage applied to the base size only, so the increment carried the error upward. VANRD recalculated grading on post-wash measurements, and the resubmitted set passed on the first inspection.Numbers that matterGrading uses a separate increment per point of measure, not a single scale factorApprove a size set, not only the base sizeApply shrinkage to the grade, not only to the base sizePut measurement tolerances in the tech pack before bulkRelated questionsWhat fits and size specs can you develop for embroidered hoodies?What should brands check before choosing a jacket manufacturer?How do I start working with a custom clothing manufacturer?What information should I provide to get an accurate manufacturing quote?How the VANRD production process runs, step by step

Direct answerBecause a sample carries all the fixed costs of a style on one garment. The pattern, the marker, the cutting setup, the machine settings, the artwork setup and the finishing are the same whether you make one piece or five hundred — but at one piece they land entirely on that sample. Add small-quantity fabric and the sample price is several times the bulk unit price by arithmetic, not by margin.Where the money goesPattern making and grading, marker making, fabric in short lengths, trims bought below their own minimums at retail-equivalent prices, decoration setup for a single piece, and the labour of running a garment through every station once.In bulk those costs divide across the run. At 100 pieces the setup is already diluted by two orders of magnitude compared with a single sample.Cost elementSampleBulk (100 pcs)Pattern and markerFull cost on one pieceSpread across 100FabricShort length, higher rateRoll quantity, mill rateDecoration setupFull setup on one pieceSetup spread across piecesLabourOne garment, all operationsLine efficiency appliesResultHighest unit costLowest unit costWhat you are really buyingA sample answers questions bulk cannot: does the fabric behave, does the pattern hold the silhouette, does the artwork read at real size. Discovering those answers at bulk stage costs the whole run.The productive way to look at it: the sample fee buys the right to run bulk once, correctly.Field exampleA brand compared a USD 45 sample with a USD 18 bulk unit and assumed a margin gap. Breaking it down, the sample carried the full pattern, a single-garment decoration setup and retail-rate trims; the bulk unit shared those across 100 pieces. The numbers were consistent — the comparison was not.Numbers that matterFixed costs (pattern, marker, setup) do not scale down to one pieceShort-length fabric and retail-rate trims raise sample material costOne sample round is cheaper than one bulk errorSample and bulk are separate transactions with separate economicsRelated questionsHow much does it cost to develop a custom work jacket sample?What is the typical MOQ for custom jackets manufacturing?What information should I provide to get an accurate manufacturing quote?How do I start working with a custom clothing manufacturer?How the VANRD production process runs, step by step

Direct answerYes. No bulk run starts without an approved sample. The sample is produced as a separate development item — typically 7–10 days after the spec and materials are confirmed — and it is charged separately because it carries its own pattern, cutting and finishing. One to three rounds is normal; each revision round adds roughly 7–14 days.What the sample actually provesThe sample is not a preview, it is the reference. It fixes the measurements, the fabric hand, the stitch density, the artwork position and the trims. Bulk is measured against it.That is why changing fabric after sample approval is the most expensive mistake in the process: the fit, the shrinkage allowance and the grade all need to be rebuilt.StagePurposeTypical durationFit samplePattern, measurements, silhouette7–10 daysRevision roundAdjust fit or details7–14 days eachPre-production sampleConfirm bulk fabric, trims and decoration7–10 daysBulkProduction against the approved sample25–35 daysKeeping sample rounds to a minimumMost extra rounds come from an incomplete brief, not from the factory. Send measurements from a garment you already sell, state the fabric weight, and mark the artwork position on a photo.Change one variable per round. If you change fabric and fit together, you cannot tell which change produced the result.Field exampleA Toronto brand needed a boxy hoodie with a dropped shoulder. Round one came back too close to the body because the brief said “oversized” without measurements. VANRD rebuilt the block with a measured reference garment, and round two was approved — two rounds instead of the four the brand had budgeted.Numbers that matterSampling: 7–10 days after spec and materials are confirmedRevision rounds: roughly 7–14 days each; 1–3 rounds is normalBulk only starts after pre-production approvalChange one variable per round to keep the result readableRelated questionsHow long does jacket sampling take?How do I start working with a custom clothing manufacturer?What information should I provide to get an accurate manufacturing quote?Can the manufacturer help source fabrics, trims, and accessories?How the VANRD production process runs, step by step

Direct answerOur minimum is 100 pieces per style and color. It is a per-colour minimum, not a per-order minimum — a two-colour programme starts at 200 pieces, four colours at 400. Sizes can be mixed inside a colourway as long as the total for that colour reaches 100. Different colours cannot be combined to reach the minimum, because each colour is a separate dye and cutting lot.Why the minimum existsCutting, dyeing, pattern development, trims with their own supplier minimums and a separate sampling round all have to be carried by the first order. At 100 pieces those costs sit on a small quantity; at 500 the same setup spreads across five times as many units, which is why unit price falls as volume rises.The minimum is also a quality mechanism: below roughly 100 pieces a colour, the cutting and sewing lines are not set up long enough to hold consistency across sizes.ProgrammeTotal piecesHow it is calculated1 colour100100 per color2 colours200100 × 24 colours, same style400100 × 42 styles, 2 colours each400100 × 4 colourwaysWhat can push the minimum higherCustom-dyed colourways carry their own mill dye-lot minimum on top of the garment minimum. Specialist constructions, bonded fabrics, and trims with high supplier minimums can also raise it.If your first drop is smaller than the minimum, the practical route is to launch fewer colourways at 100 pieces each rather than more colours at 50.Field exampleA Seoul label wanted six colourways at 60 pieces each. VANRD mapped it to two colours at 100 pieces for the launch and kept the other four as a second wave, which held the per-colour rule and kept the unit price inside their target.Numbers that matterMOQ: 100 pieces per style and colorSizes can be mixed within a colourway; colours cannot be combinedUnit price falls as volume rises because fixed costs spreadCustom-dyed colours add a mill dye-lot minimum on topRelated questionsCan a new apparel brand start OEM/ODM production without a large order?Can I order a single prototype before bulk production?How do I start working with a custom clothing manufacturer?What information should I provide to get an accurate manufacturing quote?How the VANRD production process runs, step by step

Direct answerYes. A full-package factory sources fabric, trims and accessories as part of the order: shell fabric, lining, rib, zippers, drawcords, eyelets, labels, hangtags and polybags. The important questions are not whether it can be done, but who carries the mill minimum, who approves the trim standard, and whether every component is recorded on one spec sheet. At VANRD these are consolidated into a single material record per style so a reorder does not silently change a zipper.What “full package” actually coversFabric and lining come from mills; rib and cuff from knit suppliers; zippers, snaps and cords from trim houses; labels and hangtags from print suppliers. Each has its own minimum and lead time, and those minimums do not disappear because you are buying through a factory.A factory with established suppliers can often buy below the mill minimum by combining your order with other programmes — but that only works on qualities it already carries.ComponentTypical constraintWhat to lockShell fabricMill minimum per colourQuality code, GSM, composition, shadeRib and cuffDyed to match shellShade match under D65Zippers and snapsBrand and finish optionsBrand, tape colour, pull styleLabels and hangtagsPrint minimumsArtwork approval, placementPackagingCarton size and weightPolybag spec, carton marksThe reorder risk nobody plans forIf a trim is not written down, the next production run will use whatever the factory has. That is how a hoodie comes back with a different drawcord tip or a lighter zipper tape.Record every component with a photo and a supplier reference. It costs an hour and saves a season.Field exampleA Copenhagen brand's second run arrived with a different zipper pull because the original trim was never specified in writing. VANRD rebuilt the material record with photos, supplier codes and a retained sample of each trim, and the third run matched the first exactly.Numbers that matterEvery component has its own minimum, independent of the garment MOQConsolidate all materials into one spec sheet per styleKeep a physical sample of each trim with its supplier codeShade-match rib and cuff to shell under D65, not office lightRelated questionsWhich fabrics and trims do you offer for pants manufacturing?Can you support private label branding and packaging?How do I start working with a custom clothing manufacturer?What information should I provide to get an accurate manufacturing quote?How the VANRD production process runs, step by step

Direct answerTo get a firm number rather than a range, send six inputs: the style or reference garment, fabric and GSM (or accept the factory's recommendation), the number of colourways, quantity per colour, the decoration method and artwork, and packaging plus delivery date. At VANRD a quote is built from those six; if one is missing we quote a band and flag the assumption in writing.The six inputs, and why each one moves the priceStyle sets the pattern and the sewing operations. Fabric and GSM set the material cost per unit. Colour count sets the dye and cutting lots. Quantity sets how fixed costs spread. Decoration sets process time. Packaging and delivery set freight weight and mode.Ask for the quote broken down by those lines rather than one number. A breakdown shows immediately whether the difference between two suppliers sits in fabric, labour or freight.InputWhy it changes the priceStyle and constructionNumber of panels and sewing operationsFabric and GSMMaterial cost per garment; heavier costs more and ships heavierColourwaysDye lots, cutting lots, minimumsQuantity per colourFixed cost spreading; 100 vs 500 changes unit priceDecorationScreen setups, embroidery stitch count, patch makingPackaging and deliveryPolybag, carton, hangtag, freight modeWhat a trustworthy quote looks likeIt states the fabric spec, the quantity basis, the incoterm, the validity period and what is excluded. A quote without a validity date is not a quote — cotton and freight move.It should also separate sample cost from bulk cost, because these are different transactions with different economics.Field exampleA German label asked for pricing on “2,000 hoodies”. Without colourways, the number could not be fixed: two colours meant two dye lots, six colours meant six. Once the mix was set at three colours and the fabric fixed at 380 GSM loopback, the quote moved from a 20% band to a firm unit price.Numbers that matterQuote accuracy depends on quantity per colour, not total quantity aloneA quote without a validity period cannot be heldSeparate sample and bulk pricing — they are different transactionsAsk for a line breakdown to compare suppliers fairlyRelated questionsWhat should brands prepare before requesting a performance tracksuit quote?What affects the cost of custom jacket production?What is the minimum order quantity per style and color?How do I start working with a custom clothing manufacturer?How the VANRD production process runs, step by step

Direct answerStart with a written brief, not a price question. Send the garment type, quantity per style and colour, fabric and GSM direction, size range, artwork and target delivery date. That one document drives the quote, the sample and the production plan. At VANRD the sequence is: brief and quantity confirmed, fabric and trims selected, sample produced in 7–10 days, then bulk production in 25–35 days after pre-production approval.What the first message should containA factory cannot quote without quantity and construction. “How much for a hoodie?” has no answer, because the same silhouette ranges from a 280 GSM basic to a 480 GSM bonded piece with custom trims. The faster your brief is specific, the faster a real number comes back.If you do not have a tech pack, send reference images, a physical sample, or the closest product you have seen. A factory used to OEM work can build a spec from a reference — what it cannot do is guess your intent.StageWhat you provideWhat comes back1. BriefGarment type, quantity, fabric direction, colours, sizesFeasibility and indicative pricing2. SpecTech pack or reference garment, artwork, labelsFabric and trim options, final quote3. SamplingApproved spec and artworkSample in 7–10 days4. BulkApproved sample, PO, depositBulk in 25–35 days, then QC and shippingThe mistake that costs the most timeOpening three factories at once with a vague brief produces three answers you cannot compare, because each assumed a different fabric and construction. Send the same spec to every supplier.Second mistake: treating the sample as a formality. The sample is the contract — if it is not right, bulk cannot be right.Field exampleA first-time brand in Sydney came to VANRD with four reference photos and a target of 300 hoodies. The first brief lacked GSM and colour count, so the quote could only be a range. After one call the spec was fixed at 420 GSM brushed fleece in two colourways, 100 pieces each. Sample approved in nine days, bulk shipped inside the 25–35 day window.Numbers that matterMOQ at VANRD is 100 pieces per style and colorSampling runs 7–10 days after spec and fabric are confirmedBulk production runs 25–35 days after pre-production approvalOne written brief beats three vague enquiries every timeRelated questionsHow to start a private label streetwear clothing line from design to bulk production?What information should I provide to get an accurate manufacturing quote?Can I order a single prototype before bulk production?Can the manufacturer help source fabrics, trims, and accessories?How the VANRD production process runs, step by step