Fabrics & Techniques

Direct answerChoose by artwork, quantity and fabric, not by preference. Screen printing is the cheapest per unit at volume and gives the most opaque, durable result on bold graphics. DTG is best for small runs and photographic detail on cotton, but ink cost per unit stays high. DTF handles fine full-colour work on cotton blends and synthetics, with a slightly raised film hand-feel. At VANRD the method is chosen after the fabric and artwork are fixed, because the same file can succeed on one and fail on another.Side-by-sideThe decision usually comes down to three questions: how many colours are in the artwork, how many pieces you are printing, and what the fabric is. Screen printing needs a screen per colour, so setup cost is high and unit cost falls with volume. DTG and DTF have almost no setup, which makes them viable at small quantities but more expensive per piece at scale.Screen printDTGDTFBest quantity100+ for 1–3 colours;300+ for 4+ colours1–501–200 (viable to 500)Colours1–6 spot coloursUnlimited, photographicUnlimited, photographicFabricCotton, blends, polyester and nylon with matched inkCotton-rich onlyCotton, blends, syntheticsHand-feelFlat, opaqueSoft, sinks into fabricSlight film, raised edgeDurabilityExcellent, 50–100+ washesGood on cotton, 30–50 washesGood, 50–100 washes; can crack on high-stretch zonesSetup costOne screen per colourNone (per-piece pre-treatment)NoneWhere each one failsScreen printing fails on gradients and photographic work: you cannot separate a photo into six spot colours without losing it. It also struggles on high-stretch areas unless the ink system is matched to the fabric.DTG fails on dark polyester and on heavily brushed surfaces, where the ink sits on the nap rather than in the fibre. DTF fails on high-stretch zones and on very textured surfaces, where the film edge lifts.Field exampleA Tokyo label needed a 12-colour photographic back print on 60 pieces. Screen printing would have needed 12 screens and a high setup cost for sixty units. VANRD produced it DTF at 60 pieces, then moved the best-selling design to a four-colour screen print at 600 pieces — same artwork, different economics at different volumes.Numbers that matterScreen printing wins from about 100 pieces in 1–3 colours, and 300+ in four or moreDTG suits 1–50 pieces; DTF stays competitive to roughly 500DTF is the practical route for polyester and blends where DTG strugglesScreen ink is matched to the fibre — plastisol for cotton, low-bleed for polyesterRelated questionsWhat is the best print method for custom graphic hoodies?Does higher GSM always mean better fabric quality?What GSM is best for a premium heavyweight hoodie?What is the difference between French terry and brushed fleece?Fabrics & Techniques: how VANRD sources and tests fabric

Direct answerA repeatable vintage effect is a documented recipe plus a sealed standard. Write down the enzyme or stone dosage, cycle time, temperature, liquor ratio and drying route; approve a physical standard under D65 light; then hold each bulk lot to a stated colour tolerance and retain a swatch from every lot. Without that paper trail, “vintage” drifts between production runs and the reorder stops matching the first drop.Why vintage driftsThree variables move between lots: the base fabric's starting shade (dye lots differ), the machine load and liquor ratio, and the operator's judgement of when to stop. Any one of them changing by a small amount produces a visible difference after washing.The fix is to freeze the variables you can control and measure the one you cannot. Record the base fabric dye lot, fix the machine load, and photograph nothing — measure with a spectrophotometer against the sealed standard.Control pointWhat to recordWhy it mattersBase fabricDye lot and starting shadeWash builds on the base colourRecipeDosage, time, temperature, liquor ratioThe only way to repeat the resultMachine loadkg per drumLoad changes mechanical actionStandardSealed swatch under D65, Delta E toleranceRemoves opinion from approvalRetentionSwatch per bulk lot, kept 12 monthsSettles disputes with evidenceThe commercial upsideConsistency is a reorder mechanism. A brand that can promise “same wash as last season” keeps selling the same style; a brand that cannot ends up re-shooting the collection every drop.It also protects margin: wash rejections are usually discovered after the garment is sewn, so an unstable wash is the most expensive defect to fix.Field exampleA Berlin label's vintage hoodie changed visibly between two production runs, and the second drop photographed cooler than the first. VANRD rebuilt the programme with a written recipe, a sealed D65 standard and a per-lot retained swatch. The next three runs stayed within Delta E 0.8 of the standard.Numbers that matterA sealed physical standard under D65 is the only reliable reference for a washDelta E ≤ 1.0 is a practical tolerance band for garment-washed bulk lotsKeep a retained swatch from every bulk lot for at least 12 monthsMachine load and liquor ratio change the result as much as chemical dosageRelated questionsWhat is the difference between enzyme wash, acid wash, and vintage wash?How can brands keep hoodie fit, fabric weight, and wash effect consistent across reorders?How do you test garment shrinkage after washing?Does higher GSM always mean better fabric quality?Fabrics & Techniques: how VANRD sources and tests fabric

Direct answerThey are three different processes. Enzyme wash uses cellulase to break down surface fibres — softness and a slight fade, low risk. Acid wash uses chlorine-loaded pumice to strip indigo unevenly, producing the marbled contrast look, and it is the harshest of the three. Vintage wash is not a chemical but a recipe: enzyme plus stone or bleach steps tuned to a specific shade and hand-feel. At VANRD each wash is developed as a recorded recipe with a sealed standard, because “vintage” means nothing without a target swatch.What each process does to the garmentEnzyme washing is a controlled bio-polishing step. It improves hand-feel and reduces pilling, with a small, even colour loss. It is the safest route for softness and the usual base for a vintage look.Acid washing is a chemical and mechanical process: pumice stones carry chlorine onto the garment, stripping colour in patches. The result is high contrast and unmistakeable, but the fabric loses strength and the process needs careful neutralisation — an unrinsed garment will keep fading in the bag.Vintage washing combines steps: enzyme for hand, stone for abrasion, and a measured bleach or tint step for shade. It is tuned by trial, which is why it needs a sealed standard approved under proper lighting.ProcessMain effectRisk / control pointEnzyme washSoft hand, light even fadeLow risk; check residual strengthAcid washHigh-contrast marble fadeChlorine neutralisation, fabric strengthVintage washTuned shade plus abrasionRecipe drift between lots; needs sealed standardStone washMechanical abrasionMachine wear, dust, pumice residueBleach washShade liftOver-bleaching, patchy resultApproving a wash correctlyApprove under D65 light and on the final fabric, not on a flat sketch or a screen photo. Keep a sealed bulk standard and a written recipe with chemical dosage, cycle time, temperature and drying route.One production detail worth specifying: wash lots vary. Approve a tolerance band (for example Delta E ≤ 1.0) rather than a single swatch, and state how many shades are acceptable across the run.Field exampleA Seoul label asked for a “90s vintage” hoodie and approved a photo. VANRD produced three physical variants — enzyme only, enzyme plus stone, and enzyme plus a light bleach step — and the brand chose the second. Because the recipe was written down with a sealed standard, the reorder landed within tolerance on the first bulk lot.Numbers that matterEnzyme wash is the lowest-risk route for softness and pilling controlAcid wash requires chlorine neutralisation and reduces fabric strengthVintage must be approved on a sealed physical standard, never a photoSet a shade tolerance band such as Delta E ≤ 1.0 across bulk lotsRelated questionsWhat happens if the delivered bulk order does not match the approved sample?How should brands approve denim wash effects before bulk production?Does higher GSM always mean better fabric quality?What GSM is best for a premium heavyweight hoodie?Fabrics & Techniques: how VANRD sources and tests fabric

Direct answerShrinkage is reduced in three places, not one. Buy fabric that has been compacted or pre-shrunk, measure the real shrinkage with a wash test on the actual bulk fabric, and build the allowance into the pattern and grade. Untreated cotton knit can lose 3–5% in length on the first wash; compacted cotton with a controlled finishing route typically holds to 1–3%. At VANRD the wash test is run before bulk approval, and the size set is measured again after it.Where the shrinkage actually comes fromCotton knit is held under tension through knitting, dyeing and finishing. When the garment is washed, that tension releases and the loops relax — mostly in length, less in width. The amount depends on yarn twist, loop length, and whether the mill compacted the fabric before cutting.Garment washing adds a second, deliberate shrinkage step. That is why garment-dyed and washed styles should be cut with a larger allowance than piece-dyed styles.Fabric routeTypical length shrinkageWhat to doUntreated cotton knit3–5%Pre-shrink, or add allowanceCompacted cotton knit1–3%Measure and allowGarment washed / dyed2–5% on topCut after wash trialsCotton-poly blend1–2%Still verify, do not assumeThe test that settles argumentsCut a 50 × 50 cm square from the bulk fabric, mark a 40 cm reference in both directions, wash at the temperature the care label will state, dry the way the customer will dry, then measure again. Repeat three times. The stabilised figure after the third wash is the number to build into the pattern.Write the result into the tech pack. Without it, the factory cuts to nominal measurements and the customer discovers the shrinkage on their first wash.Field exampleA UK brand had a 100% cotton hoodie returning as “one size short” after washing. VANRD ran a three-cycle wash test on the bulk fabric, found 4.2% length shrinkage, rebuilt the pattern with that allowance and moved the fabric to a compacted finish. The reworked size set measured inside tolerance after three washes.Numbers that matterUntreated cotton knit: 3–5% length shrinkage typicalCompacted cotton: 1–3% after stabilisationMeasure after three wash cycles, not one — the third is the stable numberCut pattern allowance from measured shrinkage, not from a supplier estimateRelated questionsIs 100% cotton or a cotton-polyester blend better for hoodies?How does fabric choice affect the drape and oversized fit of a garment?How can I reduce pilling and fabric wear after washing?Does higher GSM always mean better fabric quality?Fabrics & Techniques: how VANRD sources and tests fabric

Direct answerFabric decides whether an oversized garment reads as structured or slouchy. A 450 GSM loopback keeps a boxy, off-body line; a 280 GSM terry falls close to the body and loses the shoulder. For a structured oversized brief, specify 400–500 GSM French terry or double-face, cut the pattern for the measured shrinkage, and lock the fabric before grading — changing fabric after fit approval is what turns an oversized garment into a merely large one.Weight, structure and the shoulder lineA knit's drape comes from three things: mass per square metre, loop structure and the finishing route. Heavier loopback stands away from the body; brushed fleece is softer and drapes closer even at the same weight. A compacted finish adds stability; a garment wash relaxes the fabric and softens the line.The practical consequence: if the reference photo shows a shoulder that stands out horizontally, the fabric is almost certainly 400 GSM or above. Trying to reach that silhouette on 300 GSM requires interfacing and structure panels, which changes the hand-feel entirely.FabricTypical weightResult on an oversized blockLight loopback280–320 GSMSoft drape, sits close, shoulder dropsMid French terry340–380 GSMBalanced, some structure, holds shapeHeavy loopback400–500 GSMBoxy, off-body, crisp shoulder lineBrushed fleece380–450 GSMWarm and plush, softer silhouetteDouble-face / bonded500 GSM+Structural, almost outerwearCut for the shrinkage, not for the sampleAn oversized pattern is unforgiving about shrinkage. If the fabric shrinks 4% in length and the pattern was cut to the finished measurement, an 72 cm body becomes 69 cm after the first wash — and the drop shoulder moves up at the same time.The fix is procedural: measure shrinkage on the actual bulk fabric, add the allowance into the pattern, and re-check the size set after one wash cycle. At VANRD the size set is measured again after wash before bulk approval for exactly this reason.Field exampleA Los Angeles label wanted a boxy 68 cm body with a strong horizontal shoulder. Their first sample was built on 320 GSM terry and collapsed at the shoulder. VANRD rebuilt the block on 430 GSM loopback, added 3% length allowance for measured shrinkage, and the approved sample held its line after the wash test.Numbers that matter400–500 GSM is the working range for a structured oversized hoodieA 4% length shrinkage on a 72 cm body is roughly 3 cm lost after washingRe-measure the size set after one wash before bulk approvalChanging fabric after fit approval invalidates both the fit and the gradeRelated questionsDoes higher GSM always mean better fabric quality?What GSM is best for a premium heavyweight hoodie?What is the difference between French terry and brushed fleece?Is 100% cotton or a cotton-polyester blend better for hoodies?Fabrics & Techniques: how VANRD sources and tests fabric

Direct answerYes — most factories can source against a physical swatch. There are three routes: stock fabric already in the mill's range (fastest, cheapest), an existing mill quality re-dyed to your shade (needs a lab dip and a dye-lot minimum), or a custom knit and dye run when the construction itself is unusual. At VANRD we quote the route before sampling, because the route decides both the MOQ and whether your colour can be repeated exactly on the reorder.The three sourcing routes and what they cost youA swatch is a physical claim: weight, composition, knit structure and shade. The factory's job is to find the closest construction first, then match the shade second — doing it in the other order is how brands end up with the right colour on the wrong hand-feel.Stock fabric is the fastest route but the shade range is fixed. Re-dyeing an existing quality gives you the colour you want at the cost of a dye-lot minimum per colour. A custom knit is only justified when the construction is genuinely new to the mill.RouteTypical lead timeWhat it needs from youStock fabric3–7 days to swatchAccept one of the mill's shadesExisting quality, re-dyed10–20 days incl. lab dipPantone or physical shade, dye-lot quantityCustom knit and dye25–45 daysConstruction spec, GSM tolerance, volume commitmentWhat to demand before you approveAsk for the mill quality code, a lab dip approved under D65 lighting (not office lighting), and a spec sheet stating GSM with a ±5% tolerance, composition and shrinkage. Then keep a sealed bulk swatch from each dye lot.This matters at reorder stage: a re-dye that lands half a shade off is the most common reason a second run sells worse than the first.Field exampleA Dutch brand sent VANRD a 380 GSM loopback swatch in a washed sage green. The construction matched an existing mill quality, so the route was re-dye rather than custom knit. Lab dip was approved in nine days, the dye-lot minimum was 300 kg, and the bulk shade stayed inside a Delta E of 1.0 against the approved dip across two reorders.Numbers that matterLab dip approval typically takes 7–10 days including shippingA ±5% GSM tolerance is normal; hold the mill to a written spec sheetSealed bulk swatch per dye lot is what protects you at reorderCustom knit and dye is only justified when the construction is new to the millRelated questionsHow does fabric choice affect the drape and oversized fit of a garment?Can the manufacturer help source fabrics, trims, and accessories?Does higher GSM always mean better fabric quality?What GSM is best for a premium heavyweight hoodie?Fabrics & Techniques: how VANRD sources and tests fabric

Direct answerNeither is better in the abstract. 100% cotton delivers the hand-feel, dye depth and “premium” language most streetwear brands sell — at a higher cost and roughly 3–5% shrinkage unless it is pre-shrunk. An 80/20 cotton-polyester fleece shrinks less, keeps its shape through washing, resists pilling and hits a lower unit price — which is why it dominates volume hoodie programmes. At VANRD we quote both for every hoodie brief so the cost and shrinkage trade-off is visible before sampling.What each fibre actually doesCotton is a natural staple fibre: it dyes deep, feels dry rather than slick, and takes garment washing and distressing predictably. Its weakness is dimensional stability — loops relax in hot water unless the fabric is compacted or pre-shrunk.Polyester is a filament: it does not shrink the way cotton does, adds tensile strength and gives the fleece a springier recovery. Blended at 20%, it keeps most of the cotton hand-feel while stabilising the garment. Push the polyester share much higher and the face starts to read synthetic under light.100% cotton80/20 cotton-polyHand-feelDry, natural, premiumSlightly slicker, springierShrinkage3–5% unless pre-shrunkAround 1–2%PillingLow to moderateLowerDye depthDeep, garment wash friendlySlightly flatter in dark shadesUnit costHigherLowerBest forPremium positioning, garment dyeVolume programmes, repeat reordersHow to decide on one briefStart from the promise on the hangtag. If the brand sells “heavyweight 100% cotton, garment dyed”, the fabric must support that claim and the price has to carry it. If the brand sells fit, graphic and drop cadence, an 80/20 fleece protects margin and removes shrinkage complaints.One caveat worth writing into the spec: if you intend to garment dye, polyester resists the dye and produces a muted, heathered result. In that case stay on cotton.Field exampleA Canadian label launched a 100% cotton 430 GSM hoodie for a premium drop and an 80/20 version of the same block for their core range. Nine months later the cotton piece had the better reviews and the blend piece had the better reorder rate — same fit, same pattern record, two different price points doing two different jobs.Numbers that matter100% cotton shrinkage: roughly 3–5% without pre-shrinking80/20 blend shrinkage: roughly 1–2%, shape retention noticeably betterPolyester above about 35% starts to read synthetic in photos and in handGarment dyeing requires a cotton-dominant base to take colour evenlyRelated questionsDoes higher GSM always mean better fabric quality?What is the difference between French terry and brushed fleece?What GSM is best for a premium heavyweight hoodie?Can a manufacturer source fabric from a reference sample or swatch?Fabrics & Techniques: how VANRD sources and tests fabric

Direct answerFrench terry and brushed fleece are cousins, not opposites. French terry keeps the inside loops intact: breathable, structured, better print surface, lower pilling. Brushed fleece is French terry that has been sanded on the inside to raise a nap: warmer and softer at the same weight, but the brushed fibres pill and the garment relaxes with wear. On VANRD hoodie programmes, structured streetwear usually lands on 400+ GSM French terry; cosy winter product lands on 380–450 GSM brushed fleece.Construction, not brandingA knit is a field of loops. On French terry those loops stay closed on the inside, which traps air without blocking moisture movement — warm enough for autumn, wearable in spring. On brushed fleece the same fabric passes through a brushing machine that breaks the loops into cut fibres, so the surface traps far more air and feels plush on first touch.The trade is durability. Cut fibres migrate, so the brushed face pills and flattens sooner than an intact loop. That is a property of the construction, not a defect in the mill.French terryBrushed fleeceInside faceUncut loopsBrushed napWarmth at equal GSMModerateHigherStructure / drapeHolds boxy shapeSofter, relaxesPrint surfaceSmooth, crisp edgesSlightly fuzzy edgesPillingLowModerate on the insideTypical range280–500 GSM260–580 GSMChoosing for a real programmeIf the hoodie has to photograph structured and hold its silhouette drop after drop, choose French terry. If the selling point is warmth and a soft hand-feel — winter markets, loungewear, gifting — brushed fleece earns its place.Decoration matters too. DTG and fine screen work sit better on a flat terry face; embroidery behaves identically on both. For print-heavy ranges, terry is the safer base.Field exampleFor a Copenhagen label running an oversized drop, we moved the core hoodie from brushed fleece to 420 GSM French terry. The garment kept its boxy shape after ten wash cycles in our shrinkage test, and the front chest print registered 1 mm tighter because the face was flat. Their winter piece stayed on brushed fleece at 400 GSM for warmth.Numbers that matterFrench terry: 280–500 GSM typical, shrinkage around 1–3%Brushed fleece: 260–580 GSM typical, shrinkage around 2–4%Brushed face is the pilling surface — expect gradual flattening after repeated washingBoth accept embroidery equally well; terry takes fine print detail betterRelated questionsDoes higher GSM always mean better fabric quality?What GSM is best for a premium heavyweight hoodie?Is 100% cotton or a cotton-polyester blend better for hoodies?Can a manufacturer source fabric from a reference sample or swatch?Fabrics & Techniques: how VANRD sources and tests fabric

Direct answerFor a premium heavyweight hoodie, target 400–450 GSM in brushed fleece, or 400+ GSM in French terry if you want structure without heat. 320–380 GSM is the volume standard rather than a premium weight, and above roughly 500 GSM you are building outerwear with a hood, not a hoodie. At VANRD we develop these weights as a single recorded specification, so the first run and the reorder feel the same.What the number actually measuresGSM is grams per square metre — mass, not quality. A loosely knitted 400 GSM fleece made from short-staple cotton pills faster and feels worse than a well-built 320 GSM made from combed yarn. Weight tells you drape, warmth and structure; yarn quality and knitting density tell you how it will survive twenty washes.That is why two 420 GSM hoodies can feel completely different on the same day: one is a double-face with tight tension, the other a slack single knit with a heavy brushed back.WeightWhat it is used forWhat the buyer feels280–320 GSMLight hoodies, layering piecesSoft, drapes close, not premium320–380 GSMThe volume standard, year-round coreSubstantial, holds print and shape400–450 GSMPremium streetwear drops, winter programmesStructured shoulders, obvious heft450–500 GSMFlagship piecesStands off the body, boxy by default550 GSM+Specialty or bonded constructionsSeams bulk, cuffs recover slowly, slow to dryWhere premium actually breaks downPast about 500 GSM the sewing window narrows: needle and feed-dog settings must change, seam bulk appears at the armhole and hood join, and any pattern error that a 350 GSM fabric hides becomes a visible pucker. Heavier fabric also means more grams of cotton per garment, so unit cost climbs with weight before you add a single print.A practical check: ask for the fabric spec sheet (GSM, composition, knit type), then weigh a one-square-metre cut from the sample. A ±5% variance is normal; a 30 GSM drop at bulk stage is substitution, not tolerance.Field exampleA Berlin streetwear label came to VANRD with a 480 GSM brushed fleece reference that kept arriving lighter at bulk with their previous supplier. We rebuilt the programme on a 430 GSM brushed-back loopback with a documented fabric record, weighed every sample and bulk roll, and held the variance inside 5%. The drop shipped on a 25–35 day bulk window and the reorder ran off the same record with no re-approval.Numbers that matter400–450 GSM is the range VANRD recommends for a first premium heavyweight hoodie320–380 GSM covers most volume programmes and prints more cleanly±5% GSM variance is the accepted production tolerance; verify with a weighed swatchAbove 500 GSM, expect longer dry time, higher freight weight and tighter sewing controlRelated questionsIs 100% cotton or a cotton-polyester blend better for hoodies?How can I reduce pilling and fabric wear after washing?Can a manufacturer source fabric from a reference sample or swatch?How does fabric choice affect the drape and oversized fit of a garment?Custom hoodie manufacturing at VANRD

Direct answerNo — GSM measures weight, not quality. A tightly knitted 320 GSM fleece from combed, long-staple yarn will pill less, hold its shape longer and feel better than a loosely built 400 GSM made from short-staple cotton. Weight is a design decision about drape and warmth; quality is decided by fibre length, yarn count, knitting tension, dyeing and finishing. At VANRD we specify all five on the fabric record, because the GSM number alone cannot protect a brand from substitution.What the number cannot tell youTwo fabrics at 420 GSM can differ by 40% in cost and by years in service life. The difference sits in things the GSM label does not carry: whether the yarn is carded or combed, the loop length, the machine gauge, the tension, and whether the fabric was compacted after dyeing.This is why “looks heavy” is a weak buying criterion. A slack knit feels thick in the hand but collapses at the seam and pills at the cuff within a season.SignalWhat it tells youWhat it hidesGSMMass, warmth potential, drapeYarn quality, density, finishingCombed vs cardedFibre length, pilling resistanceKnitting tensionKnit gaugeSurface density and stabilityDye lot consistencyShrinkage test resultDimensional stabilityColour fastnessPilling gradeSurface durabilitySeam strengthA practical verification routineAsk for the fabric spec sheet, then verify three things independently: weigh a one-square-metre cut (±5% is normal), run a wash-and-measure shrinkage test, and check a pilling grade after abrasion. If a supplier cannot provide a spec sheet, the GSM claim is marketing.For orders above roughly USD 5,000, a third-party lab test for composition and weight costs little relative to the risk of a substituted fabric arriving at bulk.Field exampleA buyer sent VANRD a 380 GSM reference that pilled badly after five washes. We rebuilt it at the same 380 GSM but on combed cotton with a tighter gauge and a compacted finish. The garment came back visually identical in weight, and the pilling grade improved from 2–3 to 4 on the same abrasion test.Numbers that matter±5% GSM variance is normal production tolerance; anything beyond that is substitutionPilling is graded on a 1–5 scale — grade 4 and above is a durable knit surfaceA one-square-metre swatch on a digital scale is the cheapest verification availableThird-party lab tests for weight and composition typically cost USD 30–80Related questionsWhat is the difference between French terry and brushed fleece?What GSM is best for a premium heavyweight hoodie?Is 100% cotton or a cotton-polyester blend better for hoodies?Can a manufacturer source fabric from a reference sample or swatch?Fabrics & Techniques: how VANRD sources and tests fabric